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Check out this impressive article on TT Guardian's Womanwise about Coskel University

By Laura Dowrich-Phillips

laura@ttol.co.tt


Xolani Heylon, right, and his business partner Machiyo Kodairo.


In local parlance, the word cosquel is used to describe outlandish and garish fashion generally shunned by the more fashion conscious.

But Google coskel, a modern spelling of the word, and what you’ll find is a connection to cool, hip, trendy clothing by a label called Coskel University.

Established by 34-year-old Trinidadian Xolani (pronounced Kolani) Heylon and his Japanese partner, illustrator and designer Machiyo Kodaira, 29, Coskel University pays homage to all things Trinidadian — hence the name.

“We wanted something that was instantly identifiable with Trinidad. We also wanted a company name that was very unique and I think deep down inside, we wanted to change the meaning of cosquel, as Trinidadians knew it.

“‘I am coskel,’ is our new ad campaign and we are going to be featuring really fashionable people wearing our brand declaring they are cosquel. So when we look back years from now, and people use the word ‘coskel,’ it would mean fashionable. We want people to say ‘Yuh remember when cosquel meant you couldn’t dress?’ That’s what we call the ‘coskel effect,’” said Heylon.

Heylon and Kodaira started Coskel University in December 2004 in Heylon’s Brooklyn, New York, apartment. The motivation, he explained, came from a longing to find clothing that represented Caribbean culture. Tired of seeing only Bob Marley’s face gracing T-shirts, he struck upon the idea of producing clothing that glorified a culture of which he felt more a part.

“I knew that really fashionable clothing, if done right, could not only be inspired by T&T, but supported world-wide. I also felt our incredible talent and history needed to be showcased. And if presented in a desirable, appealing way the world, could have a less distorted view of the Caribbean.”






The line includes T-shirts, bags, cuff bands in T&T colours and hats. Pleated skirts will be available in a month’s time and jeans will be launched in time for winter.

The unique aspect of the line is that they all bear some artwork relating to a cultural icon or some aspect of T&T culture. There are tees with images of Calypso Rose, Kitchener, Black Stalin, David Rudder and Roaring Lion. Some carry the slogans Sparrow Is God and Beat Pan? Others bear the Coskel University logo.

“Coskel’s products can best be described as wearable art, influenced by T&T. Not only are all pieces exact reproductions of Machiyo’s original artwork and handicraft, every piece contains information about the subject, for instance the collage tee that is influenced by Kitch, contains an actual Guardian article about his life. We feel like it’s our responsibility to let people know about this great man. Also any Coskel purchase is accompanied by a vintage Kaiso CD,” said Heylon.

T&T culture, he said, is important to him and he believes it should be that way to all Trinbagonians, and by extension, the rest of the world.

“T&T culture is world culture. And this world is a better place because of this such. That’s why we design with this culture in mind because fashion and style is everywhere. It’s in Sparrow’s bravado and bravadociousness, or Calypso Rose’s charming smile or Sundar’s music,” Heylon continued. “When we create, we create with this in mind because the person buying and wearing Coskel, though they may only be buying because the design is hot, has to also get an education and it’s that education that helps to not only preserve, but highlight this culture.”

Originally from Layan Hill, Belmont, Heylon, like most youth, embraced American culture. He was part of a rap group called Poetic Religion and enjoyed rapping until Asha Kambon and Pearl Eintou Springer convinced him to embrace the culture and do rapso instead of rap.

“I don’t think I knew it then, but I believe they were very instrumental in my acceptance and love for the culture,” he said. “Fast forward 15 years later. To know that the first time Trini-influenced design was featured in Luire or Street Jack fashion magazines in Japan was something I helped to create, is an incredible feeling. Think about that. There have been many influenced by hip hop and America or reggae and Jamaica but none until now influenced by Kaiso or T&T,” said Heylon of the acceptance Coskel University has received in Japan.

It’s that country, actually, that forms the company’s biggest market. Heylon revealed that last year, Japan accounted for at least 60 per cent of sales.

“I think the Japanese mentality of loving fashionable and trendy apparel and being very open and accepting of other cultures, lends for a perfect blend,” he said.

Kodaira, Heylon said, is a huge fan of T&T culture and owns a larger calypso collection than he does.

“I believe her collection dates back to 1912 or earlier. People like Lionel Belasco, Attilla, Lord Caresser and Invader to name a few. She cares about the craft of design with the cultural blend plus she makes a mean pelau. With dedication like that, our paths had to cross,” he said.

The pair met at a Starbucks in Manhattan where Kodairo had an exhibition of her artwork. Some of her paintings, he said, contained scenes from her many visits to T&T and after recognising them, he struck up a conversation with her.

“The first ever Coskel tee was done by Machi as a way to appease me for not finding what I wanted after a long day of shopping. I believe she has this ability to see what’s in my head and reproduce it. The way our system works, she will bring me a drawing and then I will use different fabrics and colours to create something around her drawings.

“In addition to being a very talented person, she is an incredibly savvy businesswoman, she singlehandedly built the Japanese market, which to date, has grown to include four stores and incredible online support,” he said.

Heylon migrated to the United States in 1992 and attended Florida State University where he got a BA in business and a Masters in accounting from Florida Gulf Coast University. His interest in fashion came while working at the JCrew clothing company as an accountant. On his lunch break, he used to visit the designer’s floor where he learned about fabric texture, colour variation and designing.

Coskel University’s clothing is no secret to local artistes. They have graced the body of David Rudder, Scrunter, Liam Teague, Black Stalin, Nikki Crosby, Maximus Dan, Kevin Lyttle and Japanese DJ’s Hemo and Moofire.

Heylon said they are very selective about who endorses the line and his wish list for endorsement includes Machel, Brother Resistance and Shadow.

Although the company only has a staff of five, Heylon said there is a great business plan that includes a 30 per cent growth by year’s end.

Coskel University will also expand to include a kids line and food. Coskel University Kindergarten will be launched this summer, with jeans and jackets. By the end of the year, Tokyo’s first Trinidadian restaurant, Coskel University Cafe, will open.

“In a way, I am living my dream but there is still a lot to do. When my culture is mainstream I will be living my dream.

“When I can see David Rudder or Lord Nelson or Calypso Rose or Despers perform in Times Square and draw the same crowds as 50 Cent or Eminem, then I will be living my dream.

“And when people know about calypso and soca and rapso and moko jumbie and pan and doubles and the beauty that is T&T, then I will be living my dream.

“Until then, I still have a lot of work to do laying the foundation. Coskel University is not just about clothing, it’s about culture.”

Now, I would admit some of their clothing is a bit expensive. But i'll rather spend the money in support of my culture instead of spend it on a Sean John, Rocawear or all the other clothing lines they have out there for the hip hoppers. I'm not a hip hopper i'm a west indian and i'm truly proud of the efforts of this man his partner.

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